Laundry

Classes started today. Mondays are going to be the hardest day here. We have two three hour classes. The six hours of class just seem to go against the Cuban way of life, the low key island life where most people just seem to hang around all day. This week we have classes Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, since our Spanish class is not meeting yet. I think since it is going to be a three day weekend we might try to go somewhere this weekend. Maybe a day trip to the province west of Habana, Piñar del Rio, but nothing has been decided yet. I feel like I have not fully experienced a lot of Habana yet. I think tomorrow we will go to the beach for the day, and Wednesday I might go see some more of Habana Vieja after class. Everyday I feel more and more comfortable with my surrounding and the people here.

It was so strange because last night a few of us were sitting around sharing pictures of our families since we have been hearing about them for the last week. One of the photos was of Ros’ brother in the grocery store just being silly. But the strange part was to see how much food was on the shelves. Each shelf was covered to its entirety with food. Here it is really hit or miss in all stores. One day they may have something and the next they don’t. It really depends here on what is available that week. It is common in my trips to the grocery to see entire aisles almost empty with a few items here or there. We have been trying for the week to get a hotpot or electric kettle in order to boil water for drinking but every store someone suggests we go to is either out of them and have no idea when they will be given more to sell or doesn’t understand what we want. I don’t think any of us ever thought some things would be so hard to find, or when we did find them that they would be so expensive.

Yesterday I did laundry for the first time since I arrived and it was very interesting. I have never had to hand wash all my clothing. Occasionally there is a hand wash only shirt or skirt, but even then I usually just put them in the machine on gentle. Here laundry is 50 cents for small items and a dollar or more for larger items like pants. Most of us have opted to hand wash our clothes ourselves due to the prices. There are no laundry mats and washers and dryers almost don’t exist. I bought laundry soap and used a bucket to hand wash my clothing and hung them on our line. It took me about an hour to wash three pairs of shorts, a few shirts, and underwear, and I am still unsure on how clean I was actually able to get things. The whole experience was interesting. I ended up splashing water all over my bathroom and making quite a mess. I think my arms have gotten one of the best workouts they ever have. It is hard to hand wash clothing. I never thought to wash things at home without a washer and dryer, but here it is really the best option. Although coming here I knew I would not have a washer and dryer but to actually not have one was an adventure. Going home in four months will probably prove to be a serious case of reverse culture shock.

I have been realizing that there are so many things that I take for granted living in a wealthy country, small things like peanut butter, inexpensive cereal, liquid milk versus powdered milk, etc…at home these things are all everyday items that we consume and don’t really think about where they come from or that they might be hard to come by or not exist in other parts of the world. Thinking about all the conveniences I left behind, has made me start to reevaluate how I live. Are these things really important, or do we just think they are because we have never been without them? Like washers and dryers.

Los Dias Primeros

Jan. 21, 2007

Today I started the day in Miami and basically stood in lines for 3 hours. The first was to get my luggage wrapped in a blue plastic wrap and after 45 minutes in line and $9 later I was ready to check in. After I waited in line for another 10 minutes the officials in Miami were finally able to take my 40lbs backpack (which no longer had useable straps, due to the large amount of blue wrap securely tucking them against the bag). All 12 of us sighed in relief when our carryon luggage was not weighed. We all had about 15-20lbs of books, clothes, toiletries, etc… tucked inside praying that they would not include the carryon as part of our allotted 44lbs. After being searched by the TSA and sniffed by a machine we were ready to board our flight which departed only 45 min later. They were not kidding when they said we should check in 3 hours early.

One of my dreams came true today when I was able to walk up the stairs onto the plane. I have always seen this done and have always wanted to do it but never was given the chance. Our plane was a small 60 person plane with two huge propellers, one on each side. I have to say I think it was the smallest plane I had ever been on. It was interesting to see the change in what South Florida looks like from the air, cookie cutter homes with red brick roofs organized neatly in communities, and what Cuba looked like from above, a patchwork of fields with small huts scattered throughout. Even from the air the socioeconomic differences were apparent. A quick hour later we landed at Jose Marti International Airport in Havana. All airports in my opinion should be like Jose Marti, it was small with only one luggage claim belt and two people working customs. Although it ran on slow Latin American time things were fairly prompt and the workers wanted to help you with everything.

We all loaded into a new little charter bus and began our first journey in Cuba, to our residence. As we drove through the outskirts of Havana and into our neighborhood what struck me the most was all the propaganda. Every billboard was covered in painted murals with slogans like “The Bush Plan…Cuba must remain free.” Or “The Revolution is Indestructible”. These political messages are mixed in with ones like “Cuba Cares about the Ozone”. Basically social and political messages are put out there to help convince the people that the Cuban government is what is best for Cuba. I never see things like this is the US and although I was aware that they existed to see them really struck me.

As we pulled up to the residence I think all of our mouths dropped. We are staying in a two story converted mansion operated by a farming group. The front has a terrace on both levels and is surrounded by foliage. It is basically a glimpse into what Havana looked like pre-revolution. We each have a double room (with three beds….) and a bathroom to share with someone on the trip and the entire second floor is ours to use (with our own terrace!). After we settled in a little some of us went on a walk to the Malecon, or the seawall which stretches about 7 miles along Havana’s Atlantic Coast. The walk was really eye opening. I had read that it is not uncommon in Havana or Cuba in general to see an abandoned building next to a newly renovated and refurbished mansion, but to actually see it is one thing. The strange mix of my neighborhood is very interesting. A large hotel with all modern amenities is right next to a run down apartment building. It is almost like some parts of American cities where neighborhoods are being basically torn down and replaced with million dollar condos. Only here it has been happening for 50 years and yet things still remain mismatched and things seem almost unequal.

The rest of the day was spent unpacking, talking, and eating. Our dinner for the night was prepared in the residence and was a large spread of fruit (guava, bananas, and pineapple), veggies, rice, beans, and some type of pork. All the fresh food is organic and comes from local farms which the farming group operates. It is amazing and tastes better than most fruits and veggies in the US. Let’s just say no one will be going hungry on this trip.

Jan. 22, 2007

After waking up at 6:50am to go for a run while it was still cool outside, almost the entire group took a 2 hour walk to Habana Viejo (Old Havana) along the Malecon. It was beautiful but extremely hot. I definitely underestimated the heat and the sun. We ate lunch at oddly enough an Arabic restaurant, which was interesting. The food had a distinct Cuban twist and a small band played Cuban music as we ate. After sitting there for about an hour we walked home through the city rather than on the Malecon. It was very eye opening. Some of the neighborhoods we walked though seemed like what we would in the US call slums. People were all hanging out on their stoops fanning themselves, talking and yelling to people on the street. It became obvious to us that Vedado, our neighborhood, was one of the wealthiest.

The mixture of old and new is fascinating in Havana. One on block there will be an old home that is in disrepair next to a brand new high rise with apartments. I don’t think anyone on the trip fully understands how this happens in a socialist society where everyone makes the same wages. Shouldn’t all the living conditions be similar? I am looking forward to classes beginning so that questions like this can be answered. A few blocks down a few of us were able to catch a glimpse of where real Cubans live. We visited a man who we met earlier in the day and offered to have us attend his school for music and dance in order to help us assimilate and understand Cuban culture. He lived in a house which on the outside looked similar to ours, a huge patio with a double front door. Upon reaching the door we noticed no bell or anything and the door was open. We simply yelled in hoping someone would hear us. To our surprise a few people peeked out of doorways. The house which we thought was more like a single family home turned out to be makeshift apartments. I would say that each room in the house was a different family and that about 10-15 people probably lived on the first floor of the house. Our friend lived in one of the small rooms. I would say that he lives alone in a room about 10 feet by 11 feet. With all his possessions neatly organized. I have never seen anyone make better use of such a small space. He created a loft and also used old handbags as bins which he nailed to the wall above his bed. It was amazing what he was able to do. As I looked around and observed everything he had. I began to realize that although most of us on the trip do not see ourselves as wealthy at home, here we were able to afford a lot more than the average Cuban. This glimpse into where and how Cubans actually live definitely opened my eyes to things that we take for granted…like our own space, a kitchen, and simply lots of space to do whatever we want.

almost time!

Jan. 21st is coming really quickly and I am busy deciding what stays in the states and what comes to Cuba with me. So far it has been a lot of research trying to figure out how I am taking money, (since no US backed credit or debit cards work and since no travellers checks work), what I am wearing, and what I will need that I cannot buy there. But, never the less I am very excited to be going abroad to Havana. I plan on visiting as many places in Cuba as I can since I don't know when I will be able to go back. Therefore look here for updates on my travels and my adjustment to a developing country. I am going to try to update the blog about once a week or so, basically whenever I am able to use the Internet. So stay tuned.